Among Knot’s straps, the Kumihimo braids are among the most popular. Their vivid interlacing of threads creates intricate patterns that embody the spirit of Japanese tradition. But how did this ancient craft evolve over the centuries? Let’s take a look back at its history.
A Fashion Item for Men
Kumihimo refers to cords made by crossing bundles of three or more threads in sequence. The greater the number of bundles and the more complex the pattern, the richer and more vibrant the design becomes. This highly decorative cord culture is said to be unique to Japan.
Today, Kumihimo is often associated with women’s accessories, such as obijime cords for kimono sashes, or with the decorative knots adorning floats at Kyoto’s Gion Festival. Yet for much of its history, Kumihimo developed as a practical fashion item for men within Japan’s class-based society.
The origins of Japan’s cord culture can be traced back to the Jomon period. Even then, simple ropes twisted from two strands were used to create patterns on Jomon pottery. By the Nara period, Japanese envoys returning from the continent brought back the culture of braiding multiple bundles of thread. Kumihimo soon found its place in men’s attire. In the famous portrait of Prince Shotoku, Karahon no Miei, Kumihimo can be seen used as a haki-o – a cord for suspending a sword from the waist. At the time, it was also common to hang golden ornaments called metsuke from the waist, with Kumihimo serving as the cord.
Since the colors of garments were dictated by social rank, Kumihimo – with its freely chosen color combinations – offered a rare means of personal expression. Braids were typically more than 10cm wide, far thicker than the 2-5cm cords common today.
Kumihimo in the Age of the Samurai
In the Heian period, Kumihimo became part of Kyoto’s refined decorative culture, with multicolored dyeing and intricate techniques developed to incorporate auspicious motifs and floral patterns.
The braids that flourished in Kyoto came to be known as “Kyo Kumihimo”, a tradition that continues to this day. Kumihimo also proved highly practical, with its strength and elasticity making it ideal for use with the swords and armor of the samurai. Braids with textured surfaces were wrapped around sword handles to prevent slipping, extending naturally into the sage-o cords used to suspend swords from the waist. Kumihimo also served as odoshi-ito, the lacing that bound together components of armor, making the most of its flexibility and durability.
By the Edo period, Kumihimo even had political significance. Since each feudal domain designated specific braid patterns to distinguish allies from enemies, many domains employed their own dedicated Kumihimo artisans.
Today, in addition to hand-braided Kumihimo made on stands such as the kaku-dai (square stand), maru-dai (round stand), ayatake-dai (pattern bamboo stand), and taka-dai (high stand), the 1950s saw the advent of machine production, making it possible to create long, uniform Kumihimo cords with consistency. Some modern Kumihimo brands now collaborate with textile manufacturers, combining new materials and technologies to continue pushing the craft forward.
With the decline of traditional kimono dress culture, Kumihimo has found new life in contemporary fashion – appearing as phone straps, bag accessories, and watch bands. With its long history and uniquely Japanese identity, Kumihimo continues to evolve today, driven by the creativity and ingenuity of modern makers.