THEME 1: What do Knot and Chikuzen Orimono pursue through tradition and innovation?
THEME 2: Hakata-ori woven into the memories carried by a watch
THEME 3: Refined design that expresses the essence of things
THEME 1: What do Knot and Chikuzen Orimono pursue through tradition and innovation?
Knot is sharing the tradition of Japanese craftsmanship with the world, while Chikuzen Orimono is carrying forward more than 770 years of heritage. How did the two first come together?
Hiromitsu Endo (hereafter, Endo): Since its founding, Knot has worked on the MUSUBU Project: bringing traditional Japanese crafts and master techniques into wristwatches and sharing them with the world. Using our directly operated stores across Japan as hubs, we turn local traditions and long-standing techniques into tangible products. We currently collaborate with about 15 companies. When we opened the Tenjin Gallery Shop* in Fukuoka in February 2018, we wanted to incorporate Hakata-ori into our watch straps, so we approached Chikuzen Orimono.
*The store is closed and the store has been relocated to the ONE FUKUOKA BLDG. in 2025.
Shuji Marumoto (hereafter, Marumoto): Yes, I remember getting a phone call asking if we could make Hakata-ori into a watch strap. I already knew about Knot watches, so I was both surprised and thrilled. We had been exploring ways to bring our textiles closer to everyday life beyond interiors for hotels and condominiums. The idea of combining weaving with watches was unexpected, but it immediately sparked my imagination.
Endo: Made-in-Japan products are popular, but what we want to do is not simply emphasize “Japan-made” – we want to create products that embody the local history and stories of each region. In Fukuoka, Hakata-ori holds a special place. I’ll admit that I didn’t know much about it at first, but when I experienced the Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival, I was struck by how powerful it was. Bearers cinch their festival coats with men’s obi belts, and some even prepare bags or wallets in Hakata-ori just for the occasion. To think that a textile has been cherished and passed down for centuries along with the history of the festival – it’s truly unique.
Marumoto: Hakata-ori marked its 777th anniversary in 2018. You can see its motifs everywhere in the city – in station signage, hotel décor, and restaurants. It’s very much a symbol of local pride. Still, it’s not something people usually wear in daily life. Structurally, Hakata-ori uses a high number of warp threads, which makes it extremely durable. Its beauty lies in the use of fine silk threads, and as an obi it has long been valued for being resistant to loosening. On the other hand, it can be difficult to process, so applying it to new product categories is a challenge. At Chikuzen Orimono, our motto is “Tradition and Innovation”. Preserving tradition alone is not enough – we need to take on new challenges as times change. In that sense, this collaboration is a wonderful opportunity.
THEME 2: Hakata-ori woven into the memories carried by a watch
“Tradition and innovation” are qualities that both Knot and Chikuzen Orimono share.
Marumoto: Even in Japan, Hakata-ori is not widely known. Many people recognize the name, but few actually know what kind of textile it is or how it’s made. Simply put, they’ve never had the chance to learn. We do promote it, but awareness is still limited.
Endo: It’s always difficult to expand the market for traditional industries as times change. But if we can adapt techniques that have been refined over centuries into forms that suit modern life, there’s real potential. Watches, after all, are one of Japan’s globally respected industries. By combining them with Japanese tradition, we can introduce that culture to the world.
Marumoto: Watches are something many people start wearing as they reach adulthood, often tied to life milestones and memories. A watch gifted by your parents for your coming-of-age, one you buy with your first paycheck, one given by a loved one... These objects carry stories. For Hakata-ori to be woven into those memories is deeply exciting for us.
Endo: Kimono wearers today are mostly older generations, but through watches I hope Hakata-ori can reach younger people as well. On my first visit to your workshop today, I was surprised to see so many young women working there.
Marumoto: People often imagine traditional crafts being sustained only by veteran artisans, but at Chikuzen Orimono, many of our craftspeople and designers are in their twenties and thirties. some even applied after finding us online, calling to say, “I want to make things with my hands, please let me work here”. I’d love for more people to know about these passionate young artisans.
Endo: I also visited the design department for the first time today. The process is incredibly creative – constructing intricate patterns out of countless tiny squares, then reproducing them with thousands of threads. It felt less like technical work and more like artistry. I think that’s part of the appeal drawing younger generations to join and redefine what craftsmanship can be.
THEME 3: Refined design that expresses the essence of things
Chikuzen Orimono has received the Prime Minister’s Award numerous times at the Hakata-ori New Works Exhibition. How do you maintain that high level of quality?
Marumoto: It may come down to the sheer number of designs we create. We produce over a hundred new patterns every year. That volume of trial-and-error leads to better results.
Endo: So in addition to traditional patterns, there’s a demand for that many new ones. How many factories or makers are part of the Hakata-ori Association?
Marumoto: About 50 companies* are registered, with 8 to 10 of them being major producers. Roughly half design their own patterns. We also have branches in both Kyoto and Tokyo. Kyoto is the center for kimono, but Tokyo has a different sensibility. Having bases in both cities allows us to respond in real time to trends in color, form, and size. Our sales teams share these insights with designers, and new products are developed through that dialogue.
*as of 2019.
Endo: So color and pattern shift with the times.
Marumoto: Exactly. And with the decline in obi demand we’ve been proactive, expanding into interior design and décor. Hakata-ori can be used in hotel or apartment interiors, or even framed as artwork. We try not only to use Hakata-ori as-is, but to incorporate corporate colors, local motifs, and other elements to weave stories into each project.
Endo: Among all the different textile traditions in Japan, what makes Hakata-ori unique?
Marumoto: Its strength and functionality are part of it, but for me, its real charm lies in its “essence”. Let me explain: When I was preparing to take over the family business, I studied Hakata-ori from scratch. At that time, Kisaburo Ogawa – the only Living National Treasure of Hakata-ori – explained it to me. He said the “essence” was to approach design with subtraction. You strip away excess color and pattern, and what remains is beautiful. That, he said, is Hakata-ori.
Endo: And what pattern embodies that?
Marumoto: The iconic “kenjo-gara” (offering pattern) is particularly representative. It consists of four motifs: the “tokko” (a Buddhist ritual implement), the “hanazara” (a lotus-shaped dish), and the paired stripes known as “oyakojima” and “kokojima”. In “oyakojima”, a thick stripe (parent) flanks a thin stripe (child), while in “kokojima” the roles are reversed. They symbolize the bond of parent and child protecting one another.
Endo: So “kenjo” means it was presented as an offering?
Marumoto: Yes, it is said to have been offered to Lord Nagamasa Kuroda during the Edo period. With its roots in Buddhist implements and auspicious motifs, it became a textile fit for offerings. Having such symbolic patterns is a unique distinction of Hakata-ori.
Endo: Hearing this reminds me that design philosophy is universal. The German architect Mies van der Rohe, who led the Bauhaus school, left us the famous phrase “Less is more”. True longevity comes not from superficial decoration, but from designs that bring out the essence of the material. Hakata-ori carries exactly that kind of spirit.
Hakata-Ori "Kenjyo" and "Sakura" Pattern
