A short distance from Asakusa, an area lined with the workshops of traditional artisans, stands Okubo Shoten. Kunio Okubo, the creator of Sukimo leather, has long worked in leather processing at this site. After graduating from junior high school, he followed in the footsteps of his father, also a leather craftsman, and began his own career. Now, with some 70 years of experience, he is a true master of leather craftsmanship.
“Since my father’s time, we had been making a shoe reinforcement part called tsukigata, which strengthens the heel. But tsukigata was an inexpensive product, so there was hardly any profit. I started thinking about how we could mass-produce it, so I drew up some designs, took them to an acquaintance, and had a machine built. It worked, and business picked up.”
The raw material for tsukigata was leather offcuts left over from making shoes and bags – specifically the flesh side, after the outer grain had been removed. At first Okubo bought the scraps from bag makers, but as production grew, the supply couldn’t keep up. Eventually, he began purchasing directly from wholesalers.
“What I bought then had proper grain on it. It was excellent leather, but it couldn’t be used for heel stiffeners. I kept wondering what I could do with it, and that’s when the idea of Sukimo Leather came to me.”
Unique Marble-Like Patterns Created With Artistic Mastery
The name “Sukimo” comes from “suki-moyo”, which means “layered slicing patterns”. Multiple sheets of leather are stacked and pressed, then sliced horizontally to reveal striking cross-sections. The result is a range of vivid, one-of-a-kind patterns with beautiful gradations: designs that resemble tree bark, animal hides, geometric Art Deco motifs, or even modern looks with bold, bright colors. Each slice reveals a completely unique pattern – a work of art in every sense. Every piece is created through Okubo’s own artistic sense. He carefully envisions the finished product before adjusting the type of leather, the press molds, the colors, the dye quantities, how the layers are stacked, and how they are sliced.
“I’ve always loved art – at one point, I even dreamed of becoming an artist. After work I would paint, and sometimes visit the Ueno Royal Museum Friends Association. I think that feeling for painting was what came through when it came to making Sukimo Leather.”
Born from reusing scraps, Sukimo Leather embodies what we now call a sustainable approach – making the most of resources. Okubo laughs modestly: “Honestly, I was just poor, so I always tried to find ways to keep costs down.” But his creativity caught the eye of many in the industry, and Sukimo Leather has since been used for wallets, bags, shoes, and belts.
The Desire to Surprise
Sukimo Leather was born about 20 years ago, after Okubo had already passed 60. Though already a seasoned leather craftsman, he had never made molds or done dye work before.
“I suppose I get obsessed with things. Since these were the core parts of the product, I didn’t want to hand them to anyone else. I visited specialists, asked questions, and learned from scratch. There was always more to do, and I was constantly busy – but it was fun. I think I just like doing what nobody else is doing, and surprising people.”
Today, even Okubo himself can’t count the number of Sukimo variations he has created.
“Changing the amount of dye or the time it soaks affects how deeply the color penetrates, which changes the gradation revealed when slicing. That changes the impression completely. So in the end, every piece is one of a kind.”
Sukimo Leather is patented, and the press molds he uses are a closely guarded secret. It’s a rare material that only Okubo himself can produce.
A Restless Curiosity
Okubo’s boundless curiosity extends beyond leather. His workshop displays art pieces he has crafted himself from Sukimo Leather: owls, sunflowers, even Western-style houses. To make his owl pieces, he spent weeks at Ueno Zoo observing the real birds. The sunflower works were inspired by seeing Van Gogh’s masterpiece at the National Museum of Western Art. His artistic side shows in other ways too: he even took up growing ornamental chrysanthemums – and within two years, won a prize.
A One-of-a-Kind Strap in Sukimo Leather
For this collaboration, Knot worked closely with Okubo to create four unique Sukimo straps. They feature woodgrain-inspired sliced patterns, one of Sukimo’s signature designs. Though just 18mm in width, the strap showcases the bold gradations and organic lines that make the material so special.
“As a craftsman, I usually don’t wear a watch because I’m always working with my hands – but I can recognize quality. I’m very happy that Knot chose to use Sukimo Leather. The process even gave me new insights, like how adding more gloss increases the sense of luxury, or how the dyeing could be adjusted – so it was a learning experience for me as well.”
The result is a strap unlike any other in the world – born from the MUSUBU (“connection”) between Knot and Kunio Okubo. With every Sukimo Leather strap, you can enjoy a one-of-a-kind pattern for yourself.