Kumihimo is a traditional Japanese craft created by interlacing bundles of silk threads in sequence. With more than three strands, the patterns that emerge can vary infinitely depending on the colors, the number of bundles, and the order in which they’re crossed. Over the centuries, Kumihimo makers have developed countless variations to suit different purposes and designs. Here, we introduce the main types of Kumihimo and the newly developed “Jusan-uchi” (Thirteen-Strand Braid), crafted specifically for watch straps.
Round and Flat – Two Types of Kumihimo
Kumihimo comes in two broad forms: maruhimo (round braids) and hirahimo (flat braids). Round braids, as the name suggests, are cylindrical in shape. Some are hollow, while others are tightly braided all the way through. When hollow, different materials such as wire or fishing line can be used as the core, adding firmness and structure to the braid.
At Showen Kumihimo, the maker of Knot’s straps, the most representative round braids include Yotsugumi (Four-Strand Braid), Yatsugumi (Eight-Strand Braid), Yokaku (Western Square Braid), Kara-uchi (Tang-Style Braid), Kakusugi (Square Cedar Braid), Kongo (Vajira Braid), and Shizumi (Calm Sea Braid).
From left: Yotsugumi (Four-Strand Braid), Kara-uchi (Tang-Style Braid), Yokaku (Western Square Braid)
The Yotsugumi is simple in structure, with only four bundles, but is said to be the most difficult to master by hand, requiring exceptional skill to braid evenly. Both the Yatsugumi and Yokaku use eight bundles, but their thread flows differ, giving each a distinct pattern and shape. The Yokaku is particularly striking for its slightly square form.
The Kara-uchi, made with sixteen bundles, has a finer surface pattern than the four- or eight-strand types. Strong and tightly woven, it is widely used in temples and shrines for prayer beads or decorative knots, and can even be braided hollow for added versatility.
Meanwhile, braids such as Kakusugi, Kongo, and Shizumi achieve even more intricate surface patterns by varying the number and flow of threads.
Jusan-uchi: Achieving Precision in Thickness and Width
Flat braids offer greater decorative potential than round braids, allowing letters, motifs, or intricate designs to be woven directly into their structure. On a traditional loom, which is used for highly detailed work, as many as 52 bundles – or in some cases over 100 – may be employed to create fine patterns and textures.
A takadai, used for handcrafting kumihimo with fine patterns and complex braid structures.
Well-known types of flat braids include Kyu-uchi (Nine-Strand Braid), Jusan-uchi (Thirteen-Strand Braid), Nijugo-uchi (Twenty-Five-Strand Braid), as well as variations like Hirakara-uchi (Flat Tang-Style Braid), Ju-uchi (Layered Braid), Ayakorai (Twilled Braid), Yamato-gumi (Yamato Braid), and Chirimen-gumi (Crepe Braid). Each uses different materials or weaving methods for unique effects.
For example, Ayakorai distributes many bundles in such a way that, no matter how wide the braid, it maintains an even thinness. Yamato-gumi, made without twisting the threads, results in an exceptionally flat, smooth surface. It can even be made reversible, with different colors on the front and back.
Kyu-uchi and Jusan-uchi are named simply after the number of strands used: nine and thirteen, respectively. The more bundles, the wider the braid. The term “uchi” (“beat”) itself comes from the days when Kumihimo was made entirely by hand – artisans would strike the threads with a spatula-like tool as they crossed them, literally “beating” them into place.
Among these, the Jusan-uchi stands out. Creating a braid only 18mm wide and under 2mm thick, as required for a Knot strap, posed a unique challenge. After much trial and error, a new method was born: instead of using ordinary thread bundles, artisans began with pre-braided hollow cords, such as Kara-uchi. Because the cords compress slightly when woven, the thickness can be adjusted freely – an ingenious breakthrough that makes the Jusan-uchi ideal for watch straps.
While cherishing the traditional braiding techniques handed down through generations, long-established Kumihimo makers continue to devise new methods and approaches to make these modern collaborations possible, creating new braids for modern applications. Kumihimo is a craft that keeps evolving, and it will be fascinating to see how it continues to grow.